Monday, December 18, 2017

Musings and Ousings Around York - Part Two

York floods 1982 - 2015

Flood heights near Ouse Bridge


Below: Flood heights at Ouse Bridge (gardens between Ouse Bridge and Skeldergate Bridge) – given in feet and inches. Most recent, and the highest 2000.









Date
Height / m
Height /ft
Comment
04/11/2000
5.4
17’8”

1636
5.3
17’ 6”

27/12/2015
5.2
17’1”

26/09/2012
5.07
16’8”

1831
5.08
16’8”

05/01/1982
5.05
16’7”

March 1947
4.99
16’ 4 ½ “

1763
4.94
16’ 2 ½ “

December 1978
4.85
15’ 11”

1892
4.77
15’8”

1991 (Feb?)
4.72
15’6”

1995 (Jan?)
4.70
15’5”


The floods of 2012 and 2015 have yet to be added to the Skeldergate gauge; and I didn’t notice them marked anywhere else either. Regardless or real estate value and the property market, they shouldn’t hide these things; though may be have information near the gauge / floodmark about flood defences reducing the risk.

The 1982 flood was the first one I remember hearing about clearly; as a 14 year old deeply into rivers. December had been cold with heavy falls of snow throughout Britain, which thawed rapidly as it turned mild and wet. Around new year, there was flooding on the River Severn. Then the highs shifted to Yorkshire; the Wharfe bursting its banks; Dad noting this having painted it in much more benign conditions at Bolton Abbey the summer before. In York there was widespread flooding around the city; and on the tidal Ouse at Cawood and Selby downstream. I recall hearing about it all on the BBC evening TV news; and on John Craven’s Newsround. Also stuck cuttings from The Guardian into my diary; one showing a bleak picture of the flooded Vale of York somewhere around Selby. All the bleaker as, though the weather was better back home, I was at the difficult age of 14; unhappy and anxious; spotty and overweight; I wanted friends at school but couldn’t find anyone on my wavelength; but realistically, my frequency was someway off the conventional spectrum expected at that age. The news reports of floods focused on Britain; but there was also widespread flooding in Europe (presumably through a similar combo or melting heavy snowfalls and heavy rain coinciding); including the Seine in Paris; and Vistula in Poland. The BBC News mentioned the latter, Poland being in the news anyway because of martial law being imposed by the communist block  General Yarozelski just before Xmas 1981.
I don’t know about Scotland, but I’m pretty sure January 1982 flooding episode in England & Wales where melting of heavy snowfall was a big factor. Since then all the major floods in England and Wales have been  pluvial (rainfall). Relatively mild winters (eg 2015/16, 2000/01). During the colder winters (early 1991, 2009/10, 2010/11) the snow has been less heavy, shorter lasting and thawed slowly. The last two cold spells were largely cold and dry.
The 1982 York flood prompted the building of flood defences later in the 1980s, including floodgates outside the row of houses alongside the river above Scarborugh railway bridge; the Clifton Ings floodwall / sluices; floodbank alongside playing field below Clifton Bridge; and the Foss Barrier.


Foss flood barrier, operating since 1988

1991 – January or February – the biggest flood in York since 1982; as far as I’m aware the flood defences coped and it was just mentioned in passing by The Guardian with a photo. The first I heard of it was there and not on TV / radio. This came during an otherwise prolonged relatively dry period; with a succession of drier than average winters straining groundwater and chalk streams in southern England.
November 2000 – the highest flood recorded here. On the night of the flood (3rd November), it was touch and go whether all the flood defences would hold in the rising water; predicted levels raised after further heavy rain on the Pennines. This was one of the notorious areas during a period of prolonged, repeated widespread flooding across the UK. For several months that autumn, one low pressure moved in after another; some of them slow moving, leading to heavy rainfall accumulations. The floody trouble began in southern England in October, affecting SE England, including Lewes on the Sussex Ouse. Then on the night of Sunday 29th October there was a storm and strong winds. We had a power cut lasting several hours in Church Crookham, Hampshire, the winds bringing down trees and branches over power lines. The power was restored in early hours of Monday; but several more shorter power cuts for about a year afterwards everytime the wind got up. However, we got off lightly; something which became clear the following day amid news reports of rivers rising across the country. Among the first to rise were the reactive Wealden (the Mole) and Pennine rivers; then the slower respoinding ones like the Severn. The Severn floods were among the worst since 1947 and strengthened calls for better flood defences along the middle Severn through Shropshire and Worcestershire. In the north, meanwhile, reporters in wellies in York. I thought I heard one BBC Radio 4 news report mentioning the Aire charging through Leeds with a flow in excess of 1000m3s-1. The Aire flows into the Ouse downstream, so it didn’t contribute to the flooding in York; but the Vale of York was badly affected for sometime afterwards. For the remainder of 2000, there were repeated flood warnings here; and there was a further (but lesser) flood in January 2001. The spring and summer of 2000 had been wet, too: the Ouse flooded in early June. The EA used that flood as a test of their revamped flood warning service, ie flood alert, flood warning, severe flood warning. News crues’ floody reports reminded me another visit to York and the Ouse was overdue. I made two trips there during the much calmer autumn and winter of 2001. The first one, in late September was solo; with a couple of nights at YHA York and a day looking round before an OU revision weekend at the University of York. During my wanderings, I some verse to the tune of The Grand Old Duke of York nursery rhyme flowed into mind. Verses added as more floods happened.

Oh the dark brown Ouse of York
In its 2000 flood
Rose over the top of the bank
And caked the place in mud
And when it was up it was up
And when it was down it was down
And when it was only half way up
It was neither up nor down.

Then at the beginning of December, a duo trip, again based at the YHA, arriving on Saturday 1st December to view Treske furnishings in Thirsk.  We also had a look round York and walked along the river. I remember particularly the Millennium Bridge and golden reflections of Ouse Bridge in bright winter sunshine. In complete contrast to the winter before, and no doubt a relief to people living and working in the area, it was a largely dry anticyclonic winter; though there was minor flooding in February 2002. It had also been a fine, bright autumn, with the autumn colours lingering into early December.

26th September 2012
Unusual timing: September is usually dry, the weather breaking much later in the autumn, if it’s going to. 2012, though had been a very unusual year: starting off dry with real worries about drought in large parts of England and Wales after two successive dry winters. Then, an about-turn in April with heavy rain from the middle month. The Severn and Ouse flooded during the last week. Even more unusually, the groundwater and southern chalk streams recharged; rain percolating through the soil when it would normally evaporate or be taken up by plants. The early summer was wet, too. A lull later in the summer; but then it all started up again in late September. There was so much rain over Yorkshire that the Ouse rose to its highest level since the 2000 flood; though as far as I know the flood defences held limiting property flooding. News of this flood (mainly online) incidentally, distracted me briefly from a renewed period of health-related preoccupation and anxieties post-ITP diagnosis. While walking along the Swale at Richmond the year before, I thought York was about due for another large flood; to which the Swale would surely contribute. Through my life, they’d tended to happen about every ten years; though purely a perception and not a fact. After this flood, then, I thought the Ouse had had its fill for a while. But I was wrong…

 Pages from my scrapbook, December 2015


Storm Eva December 2015 – Yet another when one rain-bearing low pressure after another rammed the country leading to widespread flooding. Two winters before, (2013/14) it had been the south and Midlands. Now it was the north’s turn; and the low pressures had names (adopted by the Met.Office from an alphabetical list of names chosen by the public). Most notoriously, Storm Desmond 5th/6th December causing unprecedented, devastating flooding throughout Cumbria and to a lesser degree the Pennines. Come Christmas, warnings of another low developing, this one called Eva, set to hit on Boxing Day. At first they thought Cumbria would spare the brunt yet again; but this time the biggest problems were in Yorkshire, including York. The Ouse exceeded its 2012 level, but was some way below that attained in 2000. However, the property flooding was widespread throughout the city. Much of it was due to the failure of the Foss flood barrier, or more precisely, the Environment Agency – after considerable and careful thought – lifted the barrier to prevent the control room flooding. Normally, when the barrier is closed, it prevents the rising River Ouse backing up the River Foss and flooding the centre of city; pumps, meanwhile discharging the flow from the Foss into the Ouse near the barrier. When we visited York at the beginning of December 2017, construction work was in progress by the barrier installing eight new higher capacity pumps and a new control room which is less likely to flood. There as also major flooding on the River Wharfe which joins the tidal Ouse at Cawood above Selby. At Tadcaster it took out (destroyed) a historic stone bridge, which didn’t reopen until more than a year later. At Flint Mill Weir, near Tadcaster, the CEH / NRFA say the peak flow was around 500m3s-1 for a catchment size of 758km2 and mean flow of around 18m3s-1


 Foss flood barrier construction work, December 2017


The Vale of York is very flat and was a lake during the last ice age;  the Ouse and Humber only appearing when the ice melted and the lake drained away. 
Finally the naming of rivers, the Ure-Ouse and Humber are one river; and one of the longest in England; though I guess you could take the Ure-Ouse to be a tributary of the Trent, meeting the Trent at Trent Falls. I don't know why names change along this river system and not others. Maybe it's the marked change in the character and landscape reflecting local Geology moving east from hilly limestone dales to the flat Vale of York, then wide estuary. One theory says the  Ure (Yore) and Ouse sound similar and have the same derivation, probably water as most British river names do. Others say it’s the Ouse Gill Beck, flowing in below the confluence of the Ure and Swale which usurps the title. Broadhead says the Ouse (this stream) was Born in a Workhouse.

Books and Websites
Books

Richard Bell – Yorkshire Rock – A Journey through Time, Earthwise (2006) – geology across Yorkshire, early Mesozoic era to Quartenary.

Ivan E. Broadhead - Portrait of the Yorkshire Ouse, Hale (1982) – bought secondhand in about 1983. Even after all this time, still a good read and appreciation of the river.

Websites

York Stories – Why does York flood?http://yorkstories.co.uk/why-does-york-flood/
Flood Heights on the Ouse | York Civic Trust

River Foss Barrier - Wikipedia

York's Foss flood barrier: New pump to be installed - BBC News

Pre-Christmas Water Status Update

Water Status Reports – A Tale of Contrasting Flows


Thornton-le-Dale flow gauge in snow 30/11/17

Apart from the heavy rains prompting flood warnings in the northern England during the third week, November was a largely a relatively dry month across the UK; especially in the English lowlands, southern and central Scotland. The autumn (1st September – 30th November) rainfall total was well down in these areas, too. In southern and SE England, rainfall deficits have been building for the past 12-18 months; reflected in low groundwater and river levels and low river levels in these areas. A growing number of rivers across southern England are running well below normal: the Thames among them; with the Great Stour in Kent and the Lee in Hertfordshire exceptionally low; and hitting new record lows for November.
Great Stour, Canterbury, August 2014
The Stour gauge is just upstream Canterbury (Horton), where it is a chalkstream fed by groundwater percolating through the North Downs. The CEH and EA hydrographs show it has been running well below normal for at least the past twelve months; with no increase in flow since the summer. On 16th December, the River Lavant above and through Chichester, West Sussex was still dry. I have not seen any water in the river for the past eighteen months.Most chalk wells in southern England have yet to recharge and one in Kent (Little Bucket Farm) is dry according to CEH. Though most reservoirs are at least 80% capacity; some in the south are well below that, especially Bewl in Kent which was only 33% capacity at the end of November. The watery outlook for next year is dependent on how much rain falls over the winter and early spring. To bring the low level rivers and wells back into the normal range for the time of year will take “appreciably above average” rainfall, say CEH. If it doesn’t happen and we have, for the second year running,  another dry, anticyclone-dominated winter, this could strain water resources and lead to environmental stress by next summer.

Dry stream bed at Mid Lavant, 16/12/17

The same location in February 2013, after a wet winter
 Still Missing - River Lavant, West Dean 16/12/17

It has also been very dry in France / western Europe for much of this year, with similarly low, or even lower river flows and groundwater levels; due to high pressure over the continent to the west in the Atlantic keeping the rain away. The drought has been particularly pronounced in the south, where there were forest fires in the summer; and the wine harvest has been poor due to a combo’ of a spring frosts and summer heat. Even at the end the of November, the rainfall deficit was still 40% in some areas; and the Loire, the longest river in France with total catchment area of over 100,000km2 was still running below 200m3s-1 (Saumur, basin size here around 81000 sqkm). That’s about what they’d expected here in summer, ie estival.  Things began to change in late November when the synoptic pattern finally shifted; though more for the benefit of the east of the country than the west and Loire valley.

The Derwent-Cocker confluence, Cockermouth 25/09/17
As in November 2016, the corresponding monthly rainfall totals were very influenced by heavy rainfall falling over one or two days: most notably this year, November 22nd, when heavy rain fell in NE England and the Scottish borders affecting the Lake District, Pennines and River Tweed. During that week, the EA had a number of flood warnings out in these areas, including on the rivers I have visited this year and last: the Tweed, the Greta at Keswick and the Eden. The CEH say that  the Lune and Eden hit record high peak flows for the month of November in records going back to the 1960s; the Eden apparently exceeding its flow at the height of the November 2009 Cumbrian floods.

Eden-Caldew confluence, Carlisle, September 2016
According to the NRFA, the peak flow at Sheepmount (Carlisle) during that episode was over 1000m3s-1. However, there’s no mention of any flow figures in the November hydrological reports. The CEH November monthly hydrological summary shows a hydrograph for the Eden at Temple  Sowerby, indicating a flow of about 300m3s-1. The NRFA gives a peak flow at Temple Sowerby, 18/11/09 was just under 350m3s-1; but that figure is not exceptional in the record for that gauging station, going back to 1964. The highest recorded peak flow there was over 900m3s-1, 08/01/05, which stands out among the other readings in the data table like a sore thumb. The catchment here is around 600km2 and is upstream from everything flowing in from the Lake District via the Eamont and Caldew and far north Pennines. The Sheepmount gauge is just downstream of the Caldew confluence in Carlisle, therefore takes in the whole catchment (2287km2); though the EA is still giving near real-time river levels here, the NRFA say that during the big Storm Desmond flood, the channels shifted, meaning readings at the gauge are no longer comparable with previous ones dating back to 1968. During this year’s episode, the Swale, which rises close to the Eden, also ran high; discharging into the Ure-Ouse upstream of York. At the end of that week (24th November), the Ouse spilled onto the quays in York: when we visited it the following week, they were hosing away the mud.

Thornton-le-Dale in snow 30/11/17
After this soggy interlude, the weather pattern shifted, with high pressure extending all the way up the north Atlantic, diverting the lows up and over the British Isles and down over Scandinavia and the North Sea. This brought rain to eastern France, raising the River Seine to comfortably normal levels. The airflow, though was northerly, bringing chilly weather to Britain, with some snow. During the last week of November, it got very wintery over NE England: we know this as we were away that week in Thornton-le-Dale, in the Vale of Pickering. On Monday 27th, a bitterly cold northerly on the north facing coast at Whitby. The Wednesday, 29th, was a thoroughly miserable day in Thornton, with bitter cold, heavy rain and hail. Though the Pennine rivers had fallen, there were now flood alerts on rivers flowing off the North York Moors: the Esk and Derwent. A small rise (about 10cm) on the placid, steadily flowing Thornton Beck. Overnight the rain turned to snow. It continued snowing on the Thursday morning. A snowy walk along the Thornton Dale, followed by filling pie pub lunch at The Buck Inn. The rest of the week remained cold, with snow lingering in Thornton on Friday 1st December – likewise an ungritted Park & Ride car park on the east side of York. Snow still lingered on the North York Moors (which go up to about 300m) during the drive (road clear) to Whitby on the Saturday. Unusually during this snowy episode, the precipitation was coming in from the east, troughs in the North Sea and was mainly confined to the NE coast / far east of Yorkshire. Dry over the Pennines and NW England (which we wanted to avoid for a winter week away after Storm Desmond).

River Ouse, York, 1st December 2017
During the second week of December, it was the turn of the Midlands to get the snow (10th December. Icy in other areas, including the south on Monday 11th. This came shortly after the third named storm of the season, Caroline, which affected the far north of Scotland with strong winds. Monday 11th in southern England was wet and windy. In France, it was even windier, with gusts upto 160km/h on the west coast, according to Météo France. At Blois, on the Loire above Tours, there was a 121km/h gust, the third strongest since the station opened in 1990. Thanks to this rain, the Loire finally began to rise slowly from its estival levels; but still couldn’t quite make it to 500m3s-1 at Saumur. Often in winter there, the flow is in four figures. The Seine (Paris Austerlitz exceeded that figure on 12th and 15th December, with yellow flood alerts on some its tributaries, including the Marne, its largest.
One hopeful thing, maybe for the drier areas is, though high pressure never seems to be far away from western continental Europe, the December synoptic pattern so far is less blocked and much less anticyclonic than it was last year. Rainfall during November has wetted the soils, enabling further rain to percolate though the soil down to aquifers.

Links / sources of information:
UK Met. Office - https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/
          Weather news  releases - https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/news/releases
Met.Office (news release 01/12/17) – November and Autumn weather statistics
Environment Agency (England):
National and regional water situation reports, issued weekly and monthlyhttps://www.gov.uk/government/collections/water-situation-reports-for-england
River and Sea Levels
https://flood-warning-information.service.gov.uk/river-and-sea-levels
Flood warnings - https://flood-warning-information.service.gov.uk/warnings
Centre for Ecology and Hydrology (CEH), UK
Monthly hydrological summaries - https://nrfa.ceh.ac.uk/monthly-hydrological-summary-uk
Hydrological outlook - http://www.hydoutuk.net/latest-outlook/
National River Flow Archive – river flow data measured by gauging stations around the UK
https://nrfa.ceh.ac.uk/data/search
CEH Drought Portal - maps of dryness around the UK for the past month - 24 months. Data back to 1961
France
Météo France – forecasts and weather news, weather warnings
http://www.meteofrance.com/accueil
Vigicrues (flood warnings, links to gauging stations with real-time river levels and flows:
https://www.vigicrues.gouv.fr/
Eaufrance – national monthly hydrological reports - http://www.eaufrance.fr/

Other water news
English rivers polluted by powerful insecticides, first tests reveal | Environment | The Guardian 13/12/17
Sampling was on twenty-three rivers around the UK, mainly in England and Wales. The Eden and Twyi (Wales) and three other rivers were in the clear; but neonicotinoid insecticides were detected in all the others. The River Test, a prime angling river in Hampshire was among them; as were the Yorkshire Ouse and the Teme. Levels were particularly high / bad in the Waveney and Great Ouse in East Anglia and the Tame in the Midlands.
CEH news – Mapping ephemeral / intermittent rivers and streams across the UK and Europe. The Lavant in West Sussex is among them.
https://nrfa.ceh.ac.uk/news-and-media/news/mapping-intermittent-rivers-and-ephemeral-streams-across-europe


Musings and Ousings around York - Part One - The City of York

The first in a series of Musings and Ousings around York and along the Yorkshire Ouse

York Minster from the city walls
Our most recent visits to York were in late November-early December 2017, while based at Thornton-le-Dale.  The Tuesday was dry, cool and bright am, then cloudy over. The Friday chilly, cloudy showers am. Both days feeling of light going very early (by about 2pm when cloudy), with sunset before 4pm.

The week before (24/11/17) the Ouse had spilled onto the quay above Lendal Bridge following heavy rain in the Pennines earlier that week which provoked the Swale to rise (also flood warnings on the Lune, Eden on the Wednesday-Thursday; and more briefly on the Greta at Keswick and Caldew in Carlisle). Guys hosing away the mud deposited on the quay left when the overflow receded. Then a switch to a drier, cold, northerly airstream bringing snow to NE England / NE coast;  including Thornton-le-Dale 30/11/17. Feeling very cold throughout that week.

Millennium Bridge
These are some notes made during the trip:

Tuesday 28th November 
Park and Ride, Grimston Bar, east at Hull road intersection.

Near the car park, Space Port BP garage, with daleks on roof of shop, Planet Wash, Inner Space Centre, Storm Trooper inside. Got off bus at Piccadilly, outside The Merchant's House; near Coppergate and main shopping area. Both a bit disorientated because of time gap and streets very busy. Xmas market in Coppergate area.
Made our way through streets to the Minster and walked the City Walls walk. Got up onto the wall at Botham Bar, the west gate opposite art gallery.  Botham Bar, with Minster behind, the subject of one of my father's paintings done in the 1980s. Walked clockwise round wall. Views of north side of Minster.
 Views of York Minster



Monks Gate model shop

Monks Gate - down to road to dodge "Richard III Experience inside on the upper floor of the gatehouse. In so doing, the Chief Chartered engineer got diverted into the model shop, especially planes.

We seemed to lose the wall when we got to the River Foss.  I think we should have carried on along the main road and not the river.  Presumably the mill chimney across the road was a listed structure, now standing alone amid modern superstore premises: Morrisons, Office Outlet . 
 The River Foss, east side of city


The path along the river petered out modern apartment blocks. We found ourselves back into city centre where we'd got off bus. Eventually found Clifford's Tower, Castle Museum. Crossed the Ouse at Skeldergate Bridge, rejoined wall there. Followed wall round to Lendal Bridge. A view of the Minster behind chimney pots on the south side of the wall. Railway and railway station.
Lendal Bridge

Quick packed lunch on bench by river near Lendal Bridge. Out of wind, in sun across river, so not too cold. Some muddy debris beneath benches: legacy from last week's input's from Swale (as mentioned later by other Waterstones cafe customers). Flow now fairly gentle. 
While here, noticed that the toilets at the foot of Museum Gardens had gone. As a sign of the times, replaced by a restaurant. Seems in this city, have to pay to pee now. Not funny when needs really must…
In the early afternoon, I strolled along the river to Clifton, walking along the left bank, underneath Scarborough railway bridge; past some playing fields; under Clifton Bridge; and up onto the big flood bank by the sluice at Clifton Ings. It was clouding over, but already (about half-one) the light was going; the sun dropping. Walked back, crossing Clifton Bridge to the right bank where willow trees with the last of their leaves drooped towards the water.
 Christmas decorations - Museum Gardens

Crossing back over Lendal Bridge, I went into Museum Gardens and did some very quick pencil sketches of the glitterball baubles hanging from one of the trees and reflecting the trees. These were among various large Christmas art installations here. The following day, a miserable wet and wintery Wednesday at Thornton-le-Dale, I made some other drawings from these and my photos. See my painting and sketching blog.
Friday 1st December - Second visit, coming after a snowy day in the NE on Thursday.
Kings Staithe from Queens Staith

Arriving in the city centre on the Park & Ride as before, we walked along the Ouse between Skeldergate and the Millennium foot-cycle bridge, before lunching in a restaurant near Lendal Bridge. Though the river level had fallen, it had turned a paler, glummer shade of brown, a bit like weak tea. I’d say the sort of brown lots of people seem to give into clothing-wise come the winter; prominent among M&S’s cardigan range when I looked in there later. With memories coloured by the sunshine we’d had here this time in 2001, I’d hoped for more sun. Still showery when we got down to Skeldergate and it was chilly; but it then cleared; and reflecting the brighter sky, the river looked a better colour, too.  Turned left under Skeldergate Bridge and came across construction work to our left, associated with the Foss Flood Barrier ahead. Barrier gate to our left as we crossed the footbridge over the Foss near where it joins the Ouse. This work follows very floody problems here involving widespread flooding in York Boxing Day 2015 (see part 2).
 The junction of the Ouse and the Foss / Foss Barrier

Crossed over the Millennium Bridge and walked back into the city centre along the right bank. After Skeldergate Bridge, went away from the river along the streets for a while, then returned to the water’s edge at the cobbly Queen’s Staith. Fairly bright now, with light on the buildings across the water by the King’s Staithe. Among them was The King’s Arms. This is notorious as a pub that floods; but they are prepared for it. Though beer and banter maybe tricky when the flood is completely submerging the room during bigger floods. Otherwise, as far as I know, it’s usually business as usual very soon after the water recedes; though it helps not having fitted carpets or soft furnishings. I keep meaning to go in there again sometime soon, though in the summer months the premises and river bank are brimming over with people.




I took another stroll along the Ouse after our big lunch; this time to Lendal Bridge to compare water levels with Tuesday. They were down, the concrete quay which had been underwater now high and dry. People still hosing the mud from last week’s spillage around the benches in front of the Museum Gardens. Walked up to the footbridge alongside the Scarborough railway bridge and crossed over it to the right bank. On from there and across Skeldergate Bridge. Clifford’s Tower catching the setting sun (before 4pm) when I got there.

In Waterstones, I bought a couple of water-related books: William Thomson – The Book of World Tides – published this year to his similarly covered The Book of Tides I bought in Rossiters bookshop in Ross-on-Wye last year. That one focused on the tides around Britain. The new one goes global.




Neil Sentence – Water and Sky – Voices from the Riverside. Illustrated by Jonathan Gibbs. Little Toller / Caught by the River.
courtyard much easier than it had been last night.

A walk through the Shambles and neighbouring streets after dark


York trips past

4th May 1979  - my very first trip, including a family photo by the Ouse at Skeldergate. A cold winter; and, judging from the leafless trees, a late spring. Visited the Minster and Shambles and Castle Museum. Even at the age of 11, the city made a last, postive impression on me. 

Late August 1983 – A two-night stopover at YHA York following the family holiday in Glencoe and Perthshire (my introduction to Scotland) ; again left a last positive impression), we broke the journey home in NE England: first as a family foursome at Durham; then, after Mum headed south by coach to get back to work, a further extension with Dad, staying at YHA York for two nights. Again we went into the Minster, which no doubt Dad would have stopped to at least sketch, if not do a much more detailed painting. We walked round the city walls and went to the Castle Museum. On the second evening, we walked along the River Ouse from the YHA near Clifton Bridge to Lendal Bridge. A pleasant summer’s evening with boats on the river. Dad sketched. The river tranquil and friendly in complete contrast to how it had been in the floods of early 1982; about which the news reports at the time painted a duly grim picture of what I remember as an unhappy dark, cold winter. During our walk, we saw flood defences (banks) being built up in alongside the field below Clifton Bridge. Coming down to the river walk via the slipway by Clifton Bridge: two flood marks painted as white lines on the brick wall to our left facing the river: late December (28th?) 1978; above that 5th January 1982. There would later be one higher still, for November 2000. After that, they weren’t added to and began to fade. By 2017 they were indiscernible from the background. 

There was another family holiday with my parents in 1987; then several solo trips based at YHA York, involving the River Ouse and trips to York's many varied museums, including the National Railway Museum, Castle Museum and Yorvik Viking Museum. 

I saw the June 2004 Transit of Venus from a telescope at an event in Museum Gardens, lucky to get a break in the cloud cover as my turn came in the queue. These are very rare events: two come eight years apart (as in 2004 and 2012) then nothing for over a century. The next transit won't be until 2117.

I also took a trip to the tidal Ouse at Selby and had a look at the Ouse just downstream of York at Naburn Lock. I'll say more about this some other time.

Today (2017) - Historic city centre much the same, though considerable growth / development in past 10-20 years: tourism (packed in high summer season), now pre-Xmas busyness; posh waterfront apartments; also retail parks / development around ring road, including Monks Cross, Grimston Bar B&Q etc. Not really aware of ring road / development until now as solo trips have been by coach or train. 


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Books and Websites

Ivan E. Broadhead - Portrait of the Yorkshire Ouse, Hale (1982) – bought secondhand in about 1983. Even after all this time, still a good read and appreciation of the river.

Yorkshire more generally: Richard Bell – Yorkshire Rock – A Journey through Time, Earthwise (2006) – geology across Yorkshire, early Mesozoic era to Quartenary.

York Stories – Why does York flood? http://yorkstories.co.uk/why-does-york-flood/

Flood Heights on the Ouse | York Civic Trust

River Foss Barrier - Wikipedia

York's Foss flood barrier: New pump to be installed - BBC News