Sunday, June 5, 2011

Yorkshire Dales May 2011








Saturday 21st May – Cloudy, dry

Bus from Arnside to Kendal where met CC.Eng. Drove to Hawes and Simonstone.

Sunday 22nd May – Some brief spells of sunshine and interesting lighting on the fells etc, but frequent, inconvenient heavy showers.

Hawes, rising rivers and becks.

Monday 23rd May – Mainly very wet, particularly AM.

Farfield Mill arts and crafts, Sedburgh bookshops

Tuesday 24th May – Drier than yesterday but still very showery. One very heavy, thundery shower.

Walk in upper Swaledale near Muker and Keld. Waterfalls. Swale living up to its reputation as the fastest flowing river in England.

Wednesday 25th May

Broken cloud, brightest day of Yorkshire week.

Ribblesdale and Pen-y-ghent – quarries, geology / unconformity. Lenticular clouds. Views from top. Horton-in-Ribblesdale – Pen-y-ghent Cafe – pint size tea. Post-glaciation change in course of River Ribble.

Thursday 26th May

Increasingly wet through the day. Got the River Swale walk in, but once again found ourselves sheltering from the rain near the river.

Friday 27th May

Cloudy, mainly dry, but cold in wind, especially for late May, therefore good walk, but disappointingly couldn't linger long to sketch and take in the views.

Buckden Pike and upper Wharfedale. Views of Three Peaks.

Saturday 28th May – Travel home by car, journey along M6 somewhat an anticlimax and shock on the system after quiet second week in the Dales.


Arnside and the Kent Estuary - 19th / 20th May 2011





Train to Arnside from Liverpool Lime Street on the Thursday, Kent viaduct, though closed for engineering work, the men in orange hi-vis jackets, along with their digger stood out when viewed from the village waterside. Tide when I arrived racing out. Two nights at Arnside YHA. Friday cloudy but mainly dry. Short walk south along the estuary sketching. Didn't go too far, given the timing of the tides, path being close to, or bit below the high water mark. Knew the tides here and all round Morecambe Bay need big respect. A tide table, thankfully by the pier at Arnside. Just after noon, the coastguard siren sounded, "nobody sleeps here". Then again about half an hour later. Within minutes of the second one, the flood tide was racing in. In the afternoon, took to higher ground on Arnside Knott. Superb view from there along the estuary to Morecambe Bay and west to the Lake District Fells as far as Skiddaw.

Chester and the Dee - 17th May 2011




Travelled to Chester by train from Liverpool. My first visit for more than twenty years. Recognised the clock tower and Roman Amphitheatre when I came to them. Walked the Medieval city wall and by the Dee.

Liverpool and the Mersey - 16th - 19th May 2011





Travelled to Liverpool Lime Street by train from Southampton, changing at Birmingham New Street, on the Monday. Three nights at YHA Liverpool, situated near the redeveloped Albert Dock. Monday and Tuesday a bit damp / wet - Mersey drizzle = Mizzle, but fulfilling afternoon on the Tuesday looking round the Walker Art Gallery.

On the Wednesday, I took the train to Chester, more about that city in a separate entry. On the way back, diverted to New Brighton and came back on the Mersey Ferry.

Northwest England - May 2011


The following set of entries are about our holiday last month (May 2011).

The CC.Eng headed off to Scotland for a week during mid-May. Climbed 11 Munros, despite some wet, sometimes wintery weather. I meanwhile, had a fulfilling yha based few days for in northwest England. Visited Liverpool and the Mersey for the first time; Chester after a gap of more than twenty years. During three days in Liverpool I looked round the developed docks, visited the Maritime Museum, Tate Liverpool and the Walker art galleries. Took the train to Chester where I walked the city wall. By the Dee, strong incoming tidal current, where I hadn't been expecting it (on the Mersey, yes). Afterwards, I took to the train to New Brighton, on the north side of the Wirral, at the mouth of the Mersey. Walked from there to Seacombe, enjoying the views across the river to Liverpool during a fine sunny evening. Took the famous ferry across the Mersey to Pier Head.

After the urbanised, industrial Mersey, the Arnside, with the Kent estuary, was a pleasant contrast, albiet with the Morecambe Bay tidal regime which needs big respect. Superb views over the estuary and Lake District Fells from Arnside Knott.

On the Saturday (21st May) took a bus from Arnside to Kendal to meet up with my other half coming down from Scotland. Then had a week in the Yorkshire Dales together, based near Hawes. There exchanged rapid tidal estuaries for temperamental Pennine Rivers.

Weather – overall very mixed. Wet at times, particularly in Yorkshire, but cooler, therefore more comfortable than it has been down south lately. Unsettled weather made for dynamic skies. Refreshingly high and lively rivers.


Saturday, April 2, 2011

Southern Cornwall March 2011





A week at Penwarne Lodge, a very comfortable cottage near Falmouth, 25th - 31st March 2011. Booked for the week of the Chief Chartered Engineer's big birthday. Walks along the coast into Falmouth; Rosemullion Head and the Helford River area; Mullion and Kynance Coves, The Lizard.

Photos of Falmouth Dock, Lizard Lighthouse, Mullion Cove and waves crashing on rocks offshore near The Lizard.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Brittany 2010 - 7 - Home ferry

Saturday 25th September - ferry home from St. Malo

Early departure from gite. Dark cloudy morning, no stars out. Left about 8:00am and headed to St. Malo via the route we took yesterday across the Rance at Pont Chateaubriand. Glimpses of the Rance from the road north from here.

A bit of a wait for the ferry as various Brittany Ferries trucks loaded / unloaded food for restaurants etc. This time had comfy seats reserved in the Salon on deck 9, a bit extra but worth it for a long crossing. Could also leave some of our stuff here while we went outside / to the cafe for coffee, light lunch and tea. Watched the departure from St. Malo, 10:30am, on the outer deck. Views of the old town, Grand and Petit Bes, Cézembre island. Past the quay with the lighthouse which we walked out onto last week. Some sailing boats out, including three - mast historical looking ship. Views of the Barrage de la Rance shortly after leaving the harbour. Cap Fréhel, a distinctive flat promintory. Think I saw Pointe du Grouin to the east. Drier and mainly sunny, but there was a cool east wind, so uncomfortable staying out too long at a time. In the words of Ouest France's weather forecasts, the sea was peu agitee, with some white waves, but we had a far smoother crossing than the same one on the way back from the 1982 Bryce hols (note 1). Since then, I think they've improved / stabilised the ferries, making for smoother crossings, at least when it's not stormy. Comforttable inside. Ate and enjoyed food.

I don't think there was much, if anywhere in the Channel where I couldn't see land. Before heading north, we headed northeast, passing the Channel Islands, following the Cherbourg peninsula, about 70 miles long, stretching halfway across the Channel here. Passed close to Jersey, with Sark ahead and Guernsey further over to the left. Haven't taken much of an interest in them since a dimly remembered school trip to Guernsey just before I started sceondary school. Passed very close to the northwestern tip of the Cherbourg peninsula, Alderney to our left. Rounded the peninsula at Cap de la Hague, where there was a tall thin grey lighthouse and some buildings above the cliffs with tall chimneys, a mine perhaps.

The southern Isle of Wight came into view a good three hours before we were due in port, the chalk at the western end particularly standing out, catching the sun. The landslipped cliffs between St. Catherine's Point and Ventnor were prominent, too; though I wasn't sure what I was looking at until we got quite a bit closer. The chalk at the western end appeared detached from the rest of the island. Near Ventnor, a harder rock ledge on the highest part of the cliff looked, from a distance like a large building, but knew there wasn't one there. I think we must have seen Portland, too, though that looked different from out to sea, too. Looking back south, it was hard to tell, but could I still see the northern Cherbourg peninsula very faintly on the horizon? Continued watching the IOW as we had tea in the cafe (Note 2).

Went outside again as we passed Culver Cliff, the sea now busy with big ships. Portsmouth came into view as we rounded the island. Could see along the coast between Fawley and Selsey Bill, the South Downs behind. Picked out the spire of Chichester Cathedral. A fine evening we came to Portsmouth, everything lit by the low sun. Though the Bretagne coast was less busy and more picturesque, I thought now that our home coast stood out well, lots to offer, plenty going on, generally a good place to come back to. Good that we were able to stay on deck until we docked, didn't have to go down to the car deck until afterwards; though this did mean we were later home. Docked at 6.15pm UK time, off the ferry about 7.00pm . Therefore, got to view Portsmouth Harbour and the assortment of ships here in the daylight. Passed close to the Historic Ships area, with HMS Victory. In front of it the Arc Royal warship.

Note 1 - St. Malo - Portsmouth sailing home from the 1982 camping holiday, August 1982 - so much for Dad's ideas of spending nine hours or so sunbathing on the outer deck. The crossing was very choppy. For much of the way, he sat huddled outside, clutching a loaf of French bread, using it as a focal point to avery sea sickness. Mum, meanwhile took my brother and me to the restaurant for lunch. I felt really ill, went an ashy white just as Mum paid for the lunch. Promptly made a b'line for somewhere, a crew member calling out as I went the wrong way and hastily handing me a paper bag. My tidal trouble didn't help either - worse in those days, both aches and moodwise, hence, earlier in the week, the crazy golf strops and general moaning. Exactly the sort of thing I meant by coming back to Brittany now as an adult in a better frame of mind than I'd been back then and enjoying it more as a result.





Brittany 2010 - 6 - Cancale and around



Friday 24th September - Pointe du Grouin - Cancale

Weather improved from yesterday evening, though still very showery and certainly more autumnal - Ouest France - Temps assez agité. Made for dynamic skies and striking skies. Sea a bit rougher, with some waves, peu agitée. Went to Pointe du Grouin, the promintory to the north of Cancale. Fresh and breezy on the Pointe. Views of Mont St. Michel to the east, in the distance during gaps in fast moving shower clouds. Beyond it the southern end of the Cherbourg peninsula. The broad bay of Cancale, near the centre a hill standing out on otherwise relatively flat land, Mont Dôl. Just across the water, the Chenal de Rivière, from the Pointe was an elongated island, Île des Landes. Presumably because it was relatively narrow and probably shallow with rock outcrops / ledges beneath the water, it was rougher. When we came back from our walk, there was a strong current here as the tide ebbed. To the north of the Pointe was a cylindrical white lighthouse, the Phare Herpin. Rocky islets: the Île des Rimains, Le Châtellier. On the horizon, the Îles Chausey. On the top of the promintory, near the car park, was a coastguard lookout. Beneath it a concrete bunker. Have to remember in France, that unlike the pill boxes built back home to help defend Britain from the Nazis, the structures here were built by the Nazis occupying France - D.Day N'oublier jammais (, D-Day, never forget), 6 Juin 44 Merci.

Did a short walk on the east side of the promintory to Port Mer, a village with a sailing club. The bay was sheltered, some tropical / Mediterranean plants growing, so it felt hot and sticky when the sun came out for a bit. CCEng, overdressed, as if taking to the Scottish Hills. Must admit, I was a bit taken aback when I later discovered his shorts etc on the backseat. Sailing school at Port Mer, École Voie. Some dinghy boats / sails. Lots of yachts moored in the bay. Rounding the bay, though another reminder of the Nazi occupation, this time, a gun port with a really F'off steel gun.

Quick lunch stop back at the Pointe, dodging heavy showers.

Caught in another heavy shower when we got to Cancale. Parked on the seafront, though a bit out of the main melee where the car parks were full. Quiet on the streets, though. Seems everyone was lunching in the numerous restaurants, dining on oysters, for which Cancale is famous. Tide was now a long way out, exposing the muddy shore (note 1), leaving sailing boats high and dry. Had to shelter for a while under a shop awning as it poured with rain, watching tractors continually coming and going from the oyster beds, some of them with boats. When the rain had cleared, we walked to quay with the lighthouse and looked over the nearby oyster beds. Oyster farmings in tractors busily harvesting them at low tide. Beach near the shore a shingle of discarded oyster shells (from people eating them on the shore). Best view from up the hill, good view over the lighthouse and quay from here, too. Both took more photos than we knew what to do with, but the best view was looking across them to Mont St. Michel. The beds must be unique, haven't come across this kind of thing anywhere else. Map shows them extending some way out to sea. The ebbing tide, began to expose the farthest ones. Must be a race against time for the farmers to harvest the oysters against the tide which, no doubt races in here, as with any extensive flat shore. The tide marks on the islets to the north of the beds, showed how high the tidal range is here, the high water mark probably 12m+, as with the Rance.

Headed back to Dinan Port mid-afternoon to do some packing and cleaning. Ate out again this evening, again at La Terrasse, though the coo, breezyl autumnal weather made for some confusion. Not many tables laid outside on the terrasse at all. Generally very quiet everywhere, unlike Friday night at home, though it got going a bit later. Plenty of space inside and, as we were early, we had a table in the corner with river views on two sides. Restful watching the river as it got dark and the lights came on. Had some more local cider. Main course with pork very good, for dessert a Breton flan (rather than pastry, sugary milky consistently, rather like creme caramel.


Brittany 2010 - 5 - The Rance - Dinan - Léhon



Wednesday 22nd September - Dinan - walk along the Rance to Léhon

Slept on this morning until gone 8:00am, when it was light outside, though no movement from CCEng before then either. Woke myself up properly by drinking a cup of tea outside, watching the Rance. Felt much better for that and tried to sketch the reflected buildings and boats further up the river at Dinan Port. Tricky in the changing light, particularly when the sun came up over the valley side. From then on it quickly warmed up.

Still very warm during the middle of the day, though sensed the forecast change in the air as it clouded over during the afternoon. After a couple of days involving car travel, thought we'd have a quiet, easier day around Dinan. Stocked up on bread etc at a small grocers, near town centre. French bread and camenbert for lunch at the gite.

Afterwards, we walked up the Rance to Léhon. Crossed the Pont de Gothique, where some school children were out in colourful canoes. Walked under the viaduct, following the bend of the river beneath the cliff. Then came to some woods which looked distinctly French with the tall poplar trees on the far side. Approaching Lehon, came to a lock, here a more regular canal type one, this part of the river forming the Canal d'Ille et Rance which continues on to Rennes. Above the lock on the far side was Léhon Abbey. Next to it an outdoor municipal pool. Rounding the bend from here, we saw the Abbey from another viewpoint, stone structures on the bank reflected in the water. Near here, too, was a humpback bridge, the Vieux Pont. CCEng photographed some cyclists crossing it, before we walked into the village and round the front of the Abbey. Some pictureesque cottages and flowers here. Went up the hill to the Chateau Fort. Views over the village and Abbey, north to Dinan, too, with the Chateau tower on the Ramparts here visible up the top of the hill. In the opposite direction, glimpses of the Rance between the trees. Saw the Jamien IV boat sail up here before turning round. Saw it again later when we came to the lock, this time walking on the west side of the river. Walked among the poplar trees and then out into the green area near the viaduct, past the allotments. Back at Dinan Port early evening.

Thursday 23rd September - Dinan - Maison de la Rance

Today's Ouest France weather page (Meteo) - Dégradation automnale. A good description of the change in the weather, not to mention what we've already had back home. Overall quite a bit cooler, which was refreshing. Morning dry, mainly cloudy, but wet in the afternoon. Because of

the forecast, another easy, car-free day around Dinan. Went up to the town in the morning, CCEng interested in looking round the cycle shop near the railway station. I quickly found it too crowded / car flappy everywhere, so headed back.

Lunch at the creperie opposite the restaurant we'd eaten at on Tuesday evening. The food was fine, likewise the local cider in boules (cups), but the waitor didn't speak much English and I found it hard to hear his French over the car flap by the bridge. Some confusion between salad and cider, and didn't realise we could have had salad with galatte.

From there, we crossed the bridge and took a walk along the Rance, passing the gite, brasserie and working woodworks factory on the far side. Then turned back to visit the Masion de la Rance. As it name suggests, all about the Rance river, everything from wildlife, tides, barrages, local industry, also a bit of geology. It answered most of the questions I'd had during week about the valley. Bought a book from the shop afterwards (15 euros). Reading and understanding the French a slow process with the dictionary, but well illustrated with good photography. A good memento of what we'd seen from the boat on Tuesday / along the valley. Nearly all the material was in French, but as it was familiar with the subject and scientific terms are pretty similar in all the European languages, I got the general gist of much of the static display at least. The audio-visual thing in the cinema room was harder, but still appreciated the visual content, with scenes along the valley, including the Viking port seen from the boat, Léhon Abbey (though didn't get the bit about the fire). What looked like a natural oxbow, forming the wetlands near Dinan, though, was actually an artificial, the meander short circuited when the river was canalised; similar to the Burpham Loop on the Arun.

Geology - granite further up the valley at La Hédé, schists nearer than Channel. Also Miocene sediments (about 15Ma), limestone and sandstone. Deposited in a shallow sea, much of Brittany to the west was an island at the time. Granite / stones quarried in the valley transported by barge when the river was canalised. hadn't been sure what I'd been looking at in Dinan and St. Malo. It looked very granite-like, coarsely crystalline with a high mica content. Some of it, though showed alignment, consistent with a metamorphic schist. Saw an igneous dyke from the boat trip on Tuesday, too. Don't know how common these are. Had also been curious about how the incised valley at Dinan had formed and how long it took. Seems it was formed during the past two million years, as the river cut down into the bedrock to meet the lower sea levels during the Pleistocene cold stages. When the sea level rose at the end of the last ice age, the lower part of the valley was submerged, forming the tidal ria seen today. Presumanbly, ongoing sea level rise accounts for the Viking camp now being semi-submerged.

Palaelithic habitation from 300,000 years ago, Homo Erectus. Presumably some Neaderthals later (about 40,000 years ago), though didn't see much about them.

Vikings (Michelin Brittany Guide - invasion of Brittany in 919AD, driven out by Normans twenty years later.

Granite working - gather it's stopped now in the Rance valley, though a commonly used building stone. A display about the poplar woodworks / products.

Wildlife room - canal wetlands and tidal estuary - short films / audio info about birds, such as herons, egrets, comorants and gulls. Think I saw a kingfisher on our short walk along the river earlier.

A whole room, the last one, devoted to all things tidal, including some short films with audio through headphones. A bit about tide mills, the barrage and the astronomy behind tides.

Outside, some granite sculptures surrounded a boat carved out of granite - it floats, due to the Archimedes thing and has been out on the water fourteen times. Took 4000 hours to carve. As well we viewed these before we went in, as while we were looking round inside, heard rain on the roof, some thunder, too. When we came back outside it was still raining. Sheltered in a very homely cafe on the west side of the port, drinking tea. Comfy chairs and good coffee table books about Brittany and fairies (fees). The Irish have that word, too. Must be a Celtic thing. Hadn't realised the King Arthur - Merlin legend was over here, too. Some see it set in Medieval England, some in Brittany. The third series of Merlin has just started back home, so recognised some of the names in one of the fairy books.




Brittany 2010 - 4 - Cruise on the Rance



Tuesday 21st September - the Rance tidal barrage - Rance cruise (Chateaubriand)

Perfect weather for our boat trip. Today was the hottest day (up t trip, but felt very hot and tired when we got back to Dinan afterwards. Roads busier, too, with more dual carriageway driving. Parked in a large, free car park on the west side of the barrage. Quite busy with camper vans / people gorping at the barrage. Constant stream of traffic on the dual carriageway across the barrage, but traffic lights at the car park so OK turning out afterwards. The Croisières Chateaubriand cruises building situated at the far end of the car park, at the Gare Maritime. Used the time before our trip to look at the barrage, Usine marémotrice.

The Rance here must have been in my memory from 1982, but when we got here, I realised the scenes in some of my dreams about the Severn Bridge, including last January, more closely resembled the Rance at the Barrage than the Severn crossing. Certainly the rocky outlooks either side of it. True it wasn't motorway, but it was certainly more pedestrian pedestrian-friendly than the Severn bridges. There was a footway on the northside, which we didn't walk along, but took the subway under the dual carriageway. Climbed up on the cliff overlooking the barrage, just as they opened the lock. The lock here, was a big step up from the typical British canal lock, with sturdy steel gates and deep basin, capable of taking sizeable boats. All the boats today were yachts with tall masts, so all the traffic had to wait (traffic lights on the barrage and near the car park) while they raised the lifting bridge. Watched the road go up in front of us, before a procession of yachts headed downstream towards the Tour Solidor, a chateau-like tower on a rocky islet connected by a stone bridge, to the west of St. Malo.

After watching the lock / bridge operations at the barrage, we went for a short along the west bank to some seats overlooking an area with saltmarsh plants. A quick sketch looking towards the barrage.

Back at the Gare Maritime, I paid the balance and collected our tickets for the boat (25 euros each, paid for by the fifty euros Mum surreptiously posted before the seniors' holiday in Suffolk). The lady at the counter spoke English and gave me a sheet with a translation of the onboard commentary; very helpful as I could only pick out odd words. It was a three hour trip, 12-33pm. Sat upstairs on the open deck. Downstairs was a restaurant, filled with a coach party. Perhaps they were a choir: during the second half of the trip, it became more lively below deck, with rounds of clapping and cheering, followed by various French sing-songs and solos towards the end.

A very restful cruise. The first half of the trip, with the commentary was faster. The one back, quiter and slower paced enabling us to enjoy the views. They got up to about Mordreuc, where the river narrowed, before they turned round. Because of the muddier / shallower nature of the Rance going upriver, how far they can go depends on the state / height of the tide. At the most co-operative tides they can get as far as La Hisse, where we were on Sunday. There seemed to plenty of water all along the bit of the river we saw.

Some of the sites along the way:

As with the Dart (another ria), various creeks, some grand houses with expansive gardens. Some comorants.

Montmarin - boatyard, manor house, remains of a tide mill.

Le Cale de Jouvente - Chateau de Jouvente, Manor of the Rance. Old coastguard house, now owned by a hot air balloon enthusiast.

La Passagere - where smugglers, deserters crossed the Rance during the French Revolution.

Islands - Chevret (Rat Island), Notre Dame (Monks Island)

Saint Suliac - village on the east bank, at the widest point of the Rance, 2.5km.

Mont Garot - 72m promintory, highest point on the Rance. Nearby Viking camp, about 1000 years old, though didn't appreciate its significance / fact it's now semi-submerged in the Rance, until seeing more about it at the Maison de la Rance later in the week.

Chateau de la Roche / Tour du Chene Vert - remains of a C13th castle, with prominent stone tower on the cliff top. Now partly a house.

Pont Chateaubriand and Pont St. Hubert - passed under two bridges in close succession, where the river narrows between two rock promintories. First one, with a large arch, carries the N176, second one a suspension bridge.

Plouer-sur-Rance - small inlet here, with one of a number former tide mills on the Rance, precursors to the barrage in harnesing tidal power. This one now appartments.

When we got back to the gite we thought we'd walk up to Dinan, but in the heat, both very sluggish up the hill. Didn't really enjoy it up the top either, so came back to the cottage and chilled out for a bit, before going out again later for a meal. Went to the Café Terrasses near the Pont Gothique. Ate outside on one of the many tables under the sun umbrellas. Had the set menu, being a bit cheaper than ordering courses separately. Then went for a stroll across the bridge, past the Maison de la Rance. Near full moon reflected in the river. Then walked up into the town, the hill much easier now. Came down a circuitous, poorly lit way, via the road winding underneath viaduct.

Think I saw Uranus through binocs (7x50). Easy to find this evening because close to Jupiter. Harder to spot than I thought due to glare from nearby nearly full Moon. Both planets at opposition today.

About the barrage

Operating since 1966, with a peak power output of 240MW, generated by twenty-four 10W turbines. Understand they can generate on the food and ebb tides. It is 750 metres long, now owned and operated by the French electricity company EDF. It took three years to build, which involved blocking the flow of the Rance completely (question was, where did they put it?). Though, I haven't seen anything anywhere to suggest that the capacity or operating efficiency of the barrage has been affected, or any dredging undertaken, it seems sediment accummultion is still an issue on the Rance. This is a big case against a Severn Barrage, certainly the behemoth Cardiff-Weston scheme, which I hope will be scuppered by forthcoming austerity measures. There must still be potentially expensive / challenging unknowns here: the geology, therefore the sediment regime, on the Rance is very different to the Severn, predominantly hard rock such as schist. The other thing is, the Rance is a relatively small estuary (the tidal bit 22km long), without any major tributaries, unlike the Severn estuary. What we saw of the Rance today, was a more friendly colour than the tidal Severn; in the main, emerald green like the sea, fairly clear, though, from what we saw of the estuary from the boat, it became increasingly muddy moving upstream, particularly above the Pont Chateaubriand and the stretch we saw below l'Ecluse Chatelier on Sunday was clearly unnavigable at low / falling tide. Before lobbiers for the Severn Barrage quote figures, too, they should note that on the Rance, the tidal range has declined from at least 8m to about 5m. The latter figure is comparable with the tidal range around around Southampton. The high tide height, up to 13.5m is still the same, but the low tide mark above the barrage is now around 7m. Gather, as well, from the boat notes, that the river no longer lives up to its name: the word Rance is derived from ranc, meaning noise. The noise came from a tidal bore wave which rushed up the river before the barrage was built.

For more, see the Wikipedia entry.