Tuesday, May 30, 2017

The Ben Lawers Pass Road

Bridge of Balgie (north end) - Meggernie estate walk, 18th May

Bridge of Balgie

Pass road


Parked in a small bay on the left of the pass road, just up from the Bridge of Balgie, over the River Lyon at the northern end.  Glimpse of junction of the burn with the Lyon through the trees. The burn, running steeply down the hill beneath the winding road, had a complicated Gaelic name which was hard to read on the map (my eyes, anyway): I read it as Allt Ballea Mhullino. Near the car park, a board with a map of the area, plus a handy leaflet for the forest walk. 

Path began 130m down from the car park, off to the right (east). As we went along, vague recollections from when we did this walk five years ago. First part following waterfalls, along steep burns, or rather right now, trickling rivulets. As well they were on the low side as some sections of the bridges and board walks a little rickety, or at least looked so. These clearly made (very helpfully) to save walkers from normally boggy ground. Apart from near the lochans at the top, this really wasn't an issue, even the more mossy ground either dry or drying out. We did, though must negotiate a see-saw where the path had come undone as we walked from the southern to northern loch. Both much lower than before, especially the northern one which was now very shallow and looking more like bog than a pond. The path to the top of the hill then ran through conifer plantations (presumably the source of the timbers for the path). Boring but at least we weren't plagued by midges. Maybe the dry weather has put them off, though I'd have thought it would have to be very very dry to banish them completely, dry enough for the rivers to banish completely, probably.




Came out at the larger upper cp and wandered down to have lunch above the road, before taking it across the pass to Loch Tay and Killin. 


Up over the pass road and down to Loch Tay - cycle challenges / ghosts of cycles past

While I was sketching in Killin on 25th May, my Cycling Man cycled along the southern shore of Loch Tay to Kenmore, along the Glen Lyon road to Bridge of Balgie, and over the Ben Lawers pass back down to the Loch Tay road to Killin. About 50 miles, with over 1000 metres in total of climbing (almost as much as on the Etape. 550m of this over the pass.  It was steep. He got thumbs up from drivers going over the steep bit, along with looks of disbelief. 

I'll tell my folk that: among my memories of my very first holiday in Scotland Perthshire during the early 1980s involved hiring bicycles and going out on a 30 mile ride from Fearnan, taking in much of my Cycling Man's route above, the pass road included. Amid the similarly very warm sunshine, the first bit along Glen Lyon was very pleasant. The pass road was perhaps a bit ambitious for a family unused to long bike rides, especially in the heat of the day. A challenge, even with a bike with low gears like Cycling Man's, let alone the somewhat basic bikes we hired, complete with with collapsible handlebars. My father was on the receiving end of lots of cussing and cursing from me, my mother and younger brother and he repeatedly had to keep badgering motorists parked along the route for spanners in an attempt to fix the handlebars. We can only have walked all the way up, though once we were heading down (by then handlebars stable) I was determined to get round the course, and I'm pleased with myself in hindsight for doing so.


Ben Lawers Nature Reserve and the Lawers Dam - more on Perthshire Hydropower - the Breadalbane Scheme


Ben Lawers Nature Reserve

Hazy view south

Small burn with dam

26th May - An early start to beat the heat on the last day of our fortnight in Perthshire, leaving cottage at 8.00am. Parked at the nature reserve car park before 9.00am. This made a huge difference, not just the heat, but busyness in cp as well. It helped, too being higher up, therefore, more breeze. This took the edge off the heat, it felt pleasantly sunny, the higher the better, though still hot and close out of the wind. High level cumulus above the mountains while we were out. Still low mist over loch beneath us as we headed along the A'road to the Ben Lawers pass turning. Steep uphill from main road. A cyclist out, a runner. Parked in car park off to the left, for the Ben Lawers nature reserve. The car park has moved since the 1980s and there's no visitor centre now. They thought the one vaguely remembered from my very first Perthshire holiday  was too intrusive; though the day we went it was surrounded by thick fog, so I wouldn't know.. Ben Lawers mountain (1241m) off up to our right (E), though peak hidden behind the lower peak Beinn Ghlas.

Near car park, stonework / sculpture / inscriptions pertaining to the nature reserve and surroundings​, sundial. Picked up leaflet and turned right to follow one mile trail   around area enclosed with sheep / deer fences - Errichty trail? - near the path up the mountain. Points of interest marked along the way. Unlike much of the surrounding land, small trees and more plant life here generally: the fences are to keep out grazing animals. Outside of this area, only trees where no grazing, including ash, mountain willow. Various wildflowers, including wood anemone. A board walk over a boggy area. Here "midge eaters" growing. Carnivorous plants similar to Venus Flytrap, which feed on midges to obtain nitrogen. Not flowering just yet, but soon will be, I expect. Out of the breeze it felt buggy. Walking along the path, Cycling Man saw a lizard, both saw a toad. Probably a toad and not a frog, looked quite large. Tadpoles in some of the pools feeding the burn, taking two years to turn into frogs apparently. A burn ran down, through the middle of the area, the low water level due to the small dam just upstream (see hydropower notes below). Hills on south side of Loch Tay very hazy, couldn't see Ben More to the far west, beyond Glen Dochart, heading back down road in car later.
 
The top of the pass road

Lawers Dam

Leaving this trail, we followed the pass road up to the Lawers Dam at the top. Views of Tarmachan ridge above to the west. Passed by a couple of cyclists coming down the hill after climbing up from Glen Lyon.

Above the Lawers Dam, the lochan level was at least as low as it had been last week, with steep sand and gravel / boulder banks high and dry several metres above the water. Surely they must be at / near the lower limit here, though the pipeline comes out of the base of the dam. No water flow out of the dam, all along the pipe. Pipe disappeared into hillside after about 250m.





Sketched amid various comings and goings on and around the dam. The pass road was getting busier, very busy for a steep single track road. As well Carl did his ride yesterday. Much less busy then, he says. When we arrived, a National Trust for Scotland van parked in the layby leading to the dam walkway / roadway. A couple of people got out and crossed. Then, two SSE / Scottish Hydro vans, including a green and blue SSE branded van, with trailer. Reversing manoeuvres into the layby, with trailer attached. One guy guiding the driver. They unhitched the trailer as they drove out onto the middle of the dam walkway , though otherwise reversed with the trailer still attached (tricky business). They pushed it as far as the middle towers, the vans reversing behind it. Meanwhile, another guy below the dam, in another SSE branded van, with another hi-vis guy seemingly inspecting the pipe. As he struck it several times, the low ringing sound travelled readily across to where we were. Small waterfall coming down mountainside above the pipe also very audible. 
Among the other passing cars / trucks, an ASDA delivery van heading down to Glen Lyon. Not long after the SSE guys, a convoy of sports cars pulled up and stopped to take photos, blocking the road for a while. Mix of English and Dutch.
 
Looking north, Ben Lawers Nature Reseve
After walking back down, we turned right before the car park onto a contouring "cobbled" track: way up from here to the Tarmachans. It contours around 500m, following the tunnel the pipe from the dam leads into. Passed by an SSE van, the guy beneath the dam earlier checking out the pipe, perhaps. Early lunch sat on a rock just off the road looking over the still hazy Loch Tay.

Car park busy by the time we got back. Headed off about half-twelve, with a view to going on to Aberfeldy and The Watermill cafe.

Breadalbane Hydropower Scheme
Handy map near Lawers Dam showed the network. Everything in darker blue, aqueducts. These included most of the rivers, including the Dochart, and Tay at Kenmore. Scheme dates from 1956.

Take-home message: hydropower with dams of various sizes, pipelines, aqueducts, tunnels reservoirs throughout the highland Tay basin. As well as the Tummel basin schemes with everything ultimately feeding through the Pitlochry Dam, also the western catchment involving the Lyon, Lochay, Dochart and Loch Tay. As with the Tummel scheme, water transferred between catchments via pipelines and tunnels. This is the Breadalbane scheme. These schemes will affect river levels. Anything not leaked or evaporated eventually finds its way to the Tay, but low river / reservoirs within its basin not necessarily due to low rainfall. Most notably the Loch na Lairidge reservoir we saw today. Don't know how this compares with lochs / reservoirs in upper Glen Lyon.

The pipeline from the Lawers Dam, after disappearing into the mountainside tunnel, contours round at about 500m, before coming out as the section of pipeline visible from Loch Tay / crossed on the main road into Killin, at Finlarig power station. The head from the dam is 415m, the highest on the network . Glimpse Finlarig power station and the lower end of the pipe from the Loch Tay road into Killin.

 In the upper Lyon basin, three dams: Lubreach Dam, Loch Lyon near the head of the glen; the Loch an Daimh dam in a tributary valley; and the Stronuich Reservoir and Dam on the Lyon. Loch Lyon storage loch. Not natural. Loss of fish spawning grounds here.
 The Lochay is the second most abstracted river in the Tay basin. The first is the Garry (ref 1).  In lower reaches, a power station, with water piped from Stronuich Reservoir in the Lyon basin. Upper basin abstracted and piped into Loch Lyon.

References:
1. The Tay Western Catchments Projects, Scottish Natural Woods (2010)
2. Hydropower schemes – Power from the Glens, Scottish Southern Energy (SSE) http://sse.com/media/87078/powerfromtheglens.pdf