Notes from Finisterre - Part 2

Finisterre May 2015 Part 2 - Estuaries, harbours and towns

Quimper

We made two visits to Quimper, focused on the historic old town situated at the confluence of le Steïr and l’Odet, with the cathedral next to the square, timber framed buildings and several museums. The first one (11^th May) was a general wander. When we returned about a week later (19^th May) we enjoyed a delicious lunch in the Crêperie Quartier: a savoury crêpe for first course, followed by a dessert involving a crêpe, banana, ice cream and cream. This all filled us nicely for the rest of the day. We also visited the Musée Breton near the cathedral, particularly the exhibition of woodcuts, etchings and dry point by Breton printmakers - Nature de graveurs. A diversity of interpretations here on the various aspects of the Bretagne landscape and coast, including history, mythology, the power of the sea, the rocks, streams. I liked the series of woodcuts set on the Aven, the upper reaches where the river tumbled over rocks; the geologically inspired pieces in the first room; the depictions of wave and tide movement through relatively fine mark on a woodblock, blending to produce tone. The museum was interesting as well - pre-Roman / Roman tools, coins, granite milestones and standing stones. In later galleries, traditional Breton costume and its depiction by artists.

The town is situated at the confluence of the l’Odet (photo below)  and le Steïr (photo above).

Links to the corresponding Wikipedia français articles:

Le Steïr - https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ste%C3%AFr

L’Odet - https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odet

The Odet is the larger one, rising northeast of the town. The Steïr comes in from the north. It is partly culverted beneath the old town. Just upstream across the Pont Medard, where it ran alongside the cinema and car park, there was a weir. Looking back through the family photo albums from my childhood after the holiday, I recognised the view from the Pont Medard towards the old town. An interesting old building on the right with a wall overhanging the river. A flood mark on the bridge: 13 Décembre 2000 - Plus Hautes eaux connues (highest known water level). The date didn’t surprise me: it was during another rough patch of weather, with rain-bearing low pressure system after another triggering major flooding.  The Ouse reached a record level in York. The Severn flooded in early November and again around this time in December. There was flooding in Quimper again, involving both rivers during the winter 2013/14 (see overview). According to Wikipedia français, the highest mean daily flow on the Steïr in Quimper, in cubic metres per second,  was recorded on 12^th December 2000 and the highest flow at any instant was during the later very stormy episode on 7^th February 2014.

Of the two Quimper rivers, le Steïr was the easier river to be beside sketching etc. I don’t think I’ve seen a river with so many and so closely spaced bridges as the Odet here, but it was disappointing in that there were two busy roads running along both sides of it, with regular intersections. The noise and volume and traffic were oppressive, all the more in an incised valley along a relatively narrow river. We didn’t feel like going far, but we couldn’t immediately see any green areas / parks near the river where we could have it taken it more quietly. Instead we crossed the river and walked up the hill. There it was mainly wooded and on the edge of residential streets and not many seats, though there were a few gaps offering views of the cathedral. A passing jogger wished us Bon appétit as we ate our baguettes.

Though I didn’t notice any marked change in water levels, I gathered the Odet was still tidal through the centre of Quimper. During the first visit, it looked fairly gentle, but when I looked during the afternoon of the second visit, there was a strong current and the water looked more choppy. Below Quimper, it opens out into a wide, 20km long, estuary. Bénodet – I hadn’t twigged until now the resort takes its name from the river – is at the mouth of it, on the east bank. A flower shop along the river near the cathedral called Fleurodet.

The flooding on the Odet through Quimper Christmas 2013 – February 2014 appeared to be a combo of fluvial and tidal flooding. The hard rock Bretagne geology makes for steep incised valleys such those of the upper Odet and Steïr. As also seen in similar valleys in Devon and Cornwall, water runs off the impermeable rocks quickly, potentially provoking flash flooding. The Wikipedia français page about the Odet lists dates of other floods, including 1995 and – interestingly June 1856 when the Loire flooded (clearly another spell of rough weather).

With a few exceptions such as le Rhône, most French rivers with names ending with a “e” are feminine, e.g. la Loire, those without a “e” – le Loir, le Steïr – are masculine. When the name starts with a vowel or “H” or “Y”, it’s harder to tell – l'Indre, l'Yonne, the l'Orne, l'Huisne etc. As Odet doesn’t has no “e” at the end, I take it to be masculine.

Le Goyen - Pont-Croix and Audierne

A pleasant estuary walk between Pont-Croix and Audierne on the southwest side of Cap Sizun, done during a drier interlude between rain in the early morning and more from mid-afternoon onwards. We parked near the river at Pont-Croix, the town built on the hill on the north bank. Downstream of the road bridge the clear running River Goyen widened into an estuary. We crossed the bridge and walked to Audierne along the left bank, the path usually running above its incised valley. The tide was out, the water running between mud banks.  Given the weather, we were glad we walked on this side first as the views were better  south the east sides of the estuary had the best views. Views back to Pont-Croix with the two churches at the top of the hill. The larger spire modelled on that of Quimper cathedral.

Le Goyen, which rises to the west of Quimper flows westwards until about  two miles after Pont-Croix. It then turns southwards for the last couple of miles. Where the path dipped down in the woods to the shore, I thought I’d sketch the view across the estuary with the mud banks. I didn’t know the tide times here - it turned out that I drew in the mud banks just in time. When I started,  there was a mud bank midstream with shallow water on the nearside of it, a little egret wading into it, water about halfway up its  legs. On the far side, deeper water - and, hey, was that a tidal current running upstream, quite strongly as well? In minutes, the mud bank was covered and the little egret had taken to swimming. That explained the lack of algal scum which I was worried might affect this sort of estuary, just as it does the Hamble. There appeared to be a reasonable fluvial flow downstream as well, with springs crossing the path and flowing steeply down to the estuary at regular intervals. Also a blue square symbol marked at regular Intervals on the map along the side of the valley indicating a washhouse or pool. We passed one just before the estuary turned south. There were Gaul- Roman period archaeological remains marked on the map. This was probably further up the hill and not the a tad disappointing 2m × 1m rectangular pool we passed. It looked silted up. Springs, and lower down, tidal incursions made the path a bit muddy in places, though manageable.

The tide seemed to come in a fairly short-lived rush then settled down. Estuary generally 250m wide, though in places narrows to about 100m, therefore pinch points. Once the tide was in and the water was filling the width of the channel, it took on an emerald green colour.

Moving downstream, towards Audierne, a boat graveyard, with the remains of three craft. Strong colours with blues, oranges and rusty browns set against the vivid green of the water.

Approaching Audierne, a view of the bridge And the town houses, hotels etc. on the far side of the harbour. The area became more built up, the last bit of the path before the town running along the edge of the grounds of a grand country house set on the hillside. Just after this, we crossed the road and turned right to cross the bridge. Immediately downstream, stone / concrete structures seemingly channelling the flow though couldn't figure out why. Needless to say, everywhere closed for lunch / people having lunch. Weather beginning to deteriorate, too, though at this point only short relatively light showers.

We wandered near the harbour and towards the outlet of the Goyen. A few fishing boats, though mainly yachts and cruisers. On our right, the le Goyen hotel, restaurant busy. Car park alongside the harbour, near the working fishing boats. . Seemingly subsidence Issues here, with Cracks in the tarmac and areas fenced off. Noticed strandlines of seaweed on the slipway. The one for this afternoon's high tide was about halfway up it. It looked as if the tide was beginning to fall. Also a sparser but higher mark close to the top of the slipway. Though a sheltered harbour.

We didn't go all the way to the end of the river, but could see the outlet with a lighthouse on the west side of the harbour entrance and sandy beaches. It was windier here, with large breaking waves on the shore beyond the harbour entrance.

We walked back along the right bank spoilt somewhat by the weather, meaning we walked at a faster pace, in between sheltering beneath various trees. The path was built flat and broader on a bank. The first, past the Aqua Show aquarium and the  parking area with line of SUVs was tedious. A bit further on, a stone bridge over creek / small tributary stream on left. Then beyond this, the series of ponds eupuration (purification) – read sewage works, which have got to go somewhere. Nearing Pont-Croix, the path became a fitness / sport trail with distance markers, various exercise devices off the  path. View of Pont-Croix just before town but raining. Tried a soggy stretch.

Back at Pont-Croix, we looked round the town set on the hillside above the river, with steep cobbled alleyways which were slippery in the rain. A few artist studios. We went into the church with the larger spire. Various colourful stained glass windows, designs traditional and modern, though generally very dark inside. Outside, everywhere very quiet, and by now, we getting rather wet and tired, meaning we didn't really appreciate Pont-Croix as we might have done otherwise.

Concarneau

We went to Concarneau, to the south of Quimper on the Sunday of the middle weekend (17^th May). Here, there was the fortified old town built on an small island and a working fishing port on the north side of the harbour.

There were fortified granite walls all the way around the old town. Near the bridge, a clock tower and lower, broad tower where flags from various nations were flying.  Everywhere within the confines of these walls seemed to consist mostly of eateries and souvenir shops. It was very busy and touristy, with more Brits than we’d seen anywhere else during our time away. Back near the gateway,  pan pipers. More a cliché than a Breton thing. We also spotted a food related pun Chilli Concarneau.

We preferred the views from the ramparts around the harbour, with boats reflected in the mirror-like water in the deeper water to the north. The area near the footbridge high and dry when we arrived. Lots of seaweed, though not green algal lawns. Across the harbour to the north was the working port, with hardy fishing boats and the big fish auction hall. The harbour is formed by the Moros estuary. There  appeared to be a barrage above a road bridge high above the valley. Behind the dam, what looked like a reservoir.  A passenger ferry from the east side of the old town.  

As well as the walled town, we had a more general wander on the west side of the harbour, first towards the port, from where there was a view back to the old town. Quite a bit of colour and interest in the fishing boats, though it didn't have quite the same attraction as St. Guénolé on Wednesday.

After lunch on a bench near the walled town, we  continued round to the south, past the marine biology research centre - there are far worse places to do research. A bit further round the Auberge de Jeunesse. Worse places, for a youth hostel. Views out into the Baie de Forêt, with beacons going out into the distance. Water calm in the still, anticyclonic weather. Near here, too - across the road from the water, the Port de la Croix lighthouse and the Quai Russe, pier named after a Russian ship running aground c.1904, supplying much needed but otherwise useless cement tainted with sea water. It came in handy for building the protective quay and improved Franco-Russian relations for a little while.

After a shortcut back through the streets from the Port de la Croix area, returned to the old town and drew boats from one of the seats on the middle north facing tower. Tide by now coming in slowly, fish beneath the footbridge. What I will say for the busy walled town was the ice creams were great. At least two outlets, selling scoops of various flavours in generous size wafer cones. Spoilt for choice of flavours and ended up getting more ice cream than we bargained for, thanks to Franglais communication breakdown. Instead of two single scoops in separate cones, we got doubles. Proportionally not much more expensive either.

Menez-Hom and the Aulne

Menez-Hom, 330m, was the highest point in the area, situated at the eastern end of the Presqu'Île de Crozon, the middle peninsula of Finisterre. We parked at the top and, once the initial localised showers had passed over, we admired the views all round: east  and inland to the Monts d'Arrée. Cap Sizun was to the south, across the  Baie de Douarnenez with Pointe du Van at the far end and Douarnenez at eastern end of bay. The Presqu'Île de Crozon stretched to the west with Cap de la Chevre at its far western end. To the north was the estuary of River Aulne, with suspension bridge near western end, the Pont de Térénez. Over the hill beyond it, a glimpse of the Rade de Brest, the  natural harbour / sound between the Presqu'Île de Crozon and the Brest peninsula. The built up area of Brest was on the far NW horizon, a tower with a white dome on the ridge to the east – radar / observatory?

Menez-Hom is very popular with hang gliders and model aeroplane enthusiast. There was a sign near car park, with rules for model aeroplane flying, in French and English. Apparently flying model planes  above 1000ft is forbidden, therefore not on the top of the hill (1082ft) or too close to other people. Most of them were on the ridge lower down, facing north / northwest.

Having admired the views, we walked down the hill to Aulne at Trégarvan, and all the back up again from sea level. We began on the east side of the hill and then followed a path north to the lane. We then took various minor paths / tracks down towards the Aulne, through the Forêt de Communale Trégarvan. For the last bit down to the river we followed a stream tumbling among the rocks, downhill to a muddy looking creek, the Ster du Pont Men. The path then turned right and followed Aulne for a short while above it to Trégarvan. There were glimpses of the suspension bridge, though the trees blocked the best of the views. At Trégarvan, the path opened out onto the road past the quay with a slipway.  We had our baguettes on the picnic table. The estuary was now mostly mud, the tide ebbing, quickly revealing mud banks either side. The tidal range looked fairly high. A very recent looking strandline of debris very hear the top of the slipway and quay wall. Spring tides about now, with new moon on Monday though average ones rather than exceptional. A few yachts, some of them quickly being left high and mud bound as the tide retreated.

The tidal limit of the Aulne is at Châteaulin from where it forms the western end of the Canal de Nantes a Brest. This stretch is very sinuous with tight incised meander. According to Wikipedia français, the name of the river has much the same root as that of the various River Avons in the UK. It is 140km long. The canal is seemingly a mixture of proper canal linking various rivers between the Aulne and Erdre at Nantes.

https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aulne_(fleuve)

Began the plod back up the hill by following road up from the quay past the houses alongside the road to the church. There, there was a jam-packed graveyard with some various ostentatious looking tombstones. A mix of older, more weathered crucifix designs near the eastern end and very new looking ones of freshly polished granite near the western end. Next to the church a gateway to house number Zero, a witch on broomstick weather Vane on top of it.

Leaving Trégarvan, we followed the road up hill. There must have been something on nearby as it seemed exceptionally busy. I was glad when we turned left, off it. We then had some good views along the Aulne to the east of Trégarvan. A signpost to Kergantic. 

Otherwise it was a tedious long slog. Not helped by  the path dipping  down before going back up again. As on the way down, no direct path, but a fiddly mix of roads, tracks, minor paths. The lower bit was mainly through woods and fairly tedious. We were on the sheltered side of the hill, out of the wind, particularly lower down. Though it wasn't a hot day, I still had to take off and carry my outer layers, including the purple rain / windproof needed for the top of the hill but heavy and bulky to carry. Even though not that much else in it, rucksack felt heavier than usual. Later, as the slope steepened towards the ridge, the path opened out. The woodland here was much less dense and there were still signs of the forest fire which badly burned the NE slopes of the hill in June 2006. There were quite a few dead trees, mainly pines, dead or growing but bark still charred. That had been another hot, dry summer, with drought issues both sides of the Channel. The shortcut up onto the ridge from here was rather muddy. I’m glad we’d admired the views when we’d arrived as there was a large group of people monopolising the panorama when we got to the top.

Douarnenez

Visited on the last day of our holiday as a change of plan: we had set out for another walk on the north coast of Cap Sizun, near the bird reserve, hoping the drizzle and mist would clear. By mid-morning – later than usual, it wasn’t so we turned round and headed east. It seemed this murkiness came in with anticyclone building off the Bay of Biscay from the middle of the week. By midday, as we explored Douarnenez, it lifted and the sun came out, though the top of Menez-Hom, across the Baie de Douarnenez, was shrouded in cloud all day.

Douarnenez  was a mix of working port, historic  and pleasure port, beaches, and the town up the hill where there were some artists’ studios. Various boats in the Port Rhu area - some historical ones colourfully painted. A light ship. There was the boat museum in this area as well, though we didn’t go in. 

The harbour here was a creek at the outlet of a small stream, dam at southern head of the creek where the road was. A lock  with a swing bridge at the seaward end forming a calm harbour for reasonable size boats (18m length). Beyond the lock, towards the bay, a small beach and harbour. An island with building relating to former sardine trade at Douarnenez. The town centre was up the hill. Though light compared to English towns, the traffic that there was here was tiresome, particularly along the narrower streets down towards the harbour. The working port was to the east, with blue gasometers near the road painted with shoals of fish. Lunch on bench at the Port / Plage Rosmeur. We walked along both sides of the Port Rhu creek, though the east side with the boat museum was the more attractive one. On the west side blocks of flats. Back on the other side, upstream of the road bridge, working boatyards. View beyond the yachts to a cimetière de bateau (boat graveyard) on the far side.